Parma – two places you shouldn't miss
We got into the car at 7 am and drove – 120, 140, “let’s not talk about it” fast, to arrive at Fornovo di Taro at 9.30. Mr. Anselmo Bocchi was waiting for us and straight away, he took us down to the basement packed with lardo, ham, salami, and all that you can imagine – but double. He showed us around, not talking too much, and took us to his kitchen where chilled, small-grower champagne was waiting for us next to freshly-cut room temperature salami and bread. The air was filled with smoke (it was his home, his kitchen), he drank champagne with us, and we talked – about meat, tradition, and taste. He, one of the oldest and best producers in Parma, knows a lot. It was magical, as was the stop at his shop Salumeria Bocchi (remeber this name). To be honest, I have never eaten better cured meat and products like there . Half of the produce was made from famous OT Azienda black pigs (these babies are pre-sold two years in advance), the other half from some other souce that I did not care about, as this trip was all about OT Winery prosciutto.
Later, Rocco (Toscani) took us to another place where his meat is cured: legs hanging to become melt-in-the-mouth goodness. We walked every step to finish with one more plate of meat – this time prosciutto. And that was just the beginning of our tasty lunch that continued at local Trattoria Fontana (Piazzetta dell'oratorio - Castrignano, Langhirano), a place I would never have know existed and if I did, I would not have stepped in (what a fool). This place looks like an apartment with various rooms and is run by a family and it was one of the best food experiences during those four weeks in Tuscany. Freshly made tortelli swept me away, horse tartar scared me a bit but blew me away, all washed down with amazing Lambrusco along with mamas baked cakes ( I begged them to give me some to take home). So, if you ever happen to be close (by that I mean 100 km away) to this address Piazza Italo Pizzi, 5, Fornovo di Taro, do go there, sit down, and have the daily special.
Thank you Rocco Toscani for the tour
Story and pictures: Signe Meirane
Camera: Sony Alpha 7s